More and more of my recent trips have included a visit to a jazz club.
I’ve always loved jazz (a few of my swingingest faves include Clifford Brown, Art Tatum, Chet Baker, Dinah Washington, and Cannonball Adderly).
Want to give your friends something to think about? The next time they ask you what you plan to do on your upcoming trip, tell em ‘I’m going to a jazz club’.
It’s the kind of offhand phrase that lets them know you’re more than the average bear. That you’re interested in the kind of culture that reaches beyond the typical museum, giant ball of twine, tour of this and that, or the all too ubiquitous “hiking” (though there are some breathtaking landscapes to hike around the world).
Visiting a jazz club means you’re living like a local. After all, there’s nothing like hearing live music to really understand the vibe of a city.
And then, things are taken up a notch when you visit a great jazz city.
Paris is one such city.
Wondering what to do in Paris? Visit Rue des Lombards
In the early 20th century, Paris became a haven for the creative class of writers, surrealist painters, dancers and musicians and they welcomed jazz, and jazz artists, with open arms (for black musicians in particular, the French capital was more welcoming than the racism they encountered in the U.S.).
As soon as our tickets were booked to Paris I began researching jazz clubs. I settled on Le Duc, one of three great clubs that sit in the heart of Paris on the infamous Rue des Lombards (which incidentally was featured in the “To Courier with Love” episode of The Simpsons).
We went on our first night and were in the best of hands with the Cuban pianist and composer Harold López-Nussa.
His quintet played cuts from their album (Timba a la Americana) under warm, orange-tinted lights, while the indoor marquee of Le Duc stared at us from the back of the stage. They played a few feet from our table in as intimate a setting as one can see.
It didn’t take long for the congas, drums (played expertly by his brother Ruy) and Harold’s rollicking piano to start manipulating our hands and feet as if they were on marionette strings. I copped a couple of coupes of Dehours during their play as Wonderhoney enjoyed her tequila.
According to Blue Note, Timba a la Americana teems with joy and pathos, inspired by López-Nussa’s decision to leave Cuba and begin a new life in France. I was definitely feeling the joy aspect, knowing we started our trip on a Gallic high.
A general store by an American in Paris
Maybe it’s the discovery of fine craftsmanship I’ve never seen before. Maybe it’s the diversity of products available, but in recent years, I’ve had a growing fascination with well considered, well curated general stores.
Not sure why, but whatever the reason is, being in these general stores, browsing among these finely made wares is like a comfort food for my soul.
Attempting to find a great general store in Paris I came across Landline, in the 11th arrondissement. Soon after walking through the door we were greeted warmly by the store’s proprietor, Caroline.
Her recognition of us as Americans was as innate as a native Parisian.
That’s when she told us that she was from the Bay Area. We told her we lived and worked in the Bay Area. And just like that, we got to talking: me about my unhealthy fascination with general stores and her about her background (she held high ranking positions in the fashion industry after college).
Landline is really something to behold. Chock full of great wares from French and European artisans, there is everything you need – and some you may not, but will nonetheless want.
As well put together as a Wes Anderson film, the shop offers: goat hair cleaning tools, balls of twine, French ceramics, fine linens, socks (you know I got some), stationary, toys, bags, knitwear, French outerwear, sneakers, and the adorable pooch Buster (not for sale).
All of Landline’s products are made of natural materials and plastic free. They’re built to last, and adhere to the “buy less but better” aesthetic, one you probably know I’m a proponent of.
I can’t emphasize how considerate Caroline was. For lunch, she even pointed us in the direction of a bistro we would have never found ourselves, Chanceux (where I had a terrific Reuben btw).
I recommend stopping by Landline if/when you’re shopping in Paris and saying hello to Caroline.
Pre-Olympic café run
The rest of our trip was tourist heavy.
Days involved an overdue journey to see the Louvre’s magnificent treasures – and on a particularly beautiful day, a great walk across the city and through the Place de la Concorde over to the Eiffel Tower, where the shell game hustlers were busy relieving tourists of their money.
At the time of our trip the Olympics were three months away and the city was getting ready. There were bleachers erected along the Place de la Concorde and the walkways next to the Seine were already buzzing.
From there we made our way to the Arc de Triomphe and up the Champs-Élysées, which included a stop at the quintessential Louis Vuitton (I wanted to get some cologne from the Paris outlet but chickened out, not least because it was hard to find an available salesperson).
In between and after, our experience was a gastronomic one.
It included a visit with friends to Racines (the chilled crudo was really dope), and nonspecific café stops that are basically de rigueur for being in Paris – looking at you Café Blanc (classic steak frites) and Café Belloy (great calamari, French rosé, and the friendliest waiter that took the pic below).
Leaving Paris was as hard for us as it is for anyone who’s been there. The only thing we knew upon leaving was that we’d be back. And a jazz club would be included.
If you’ve been, or are planning to go, let me know what spots you’re hitting…I’ll add em to the list.😉
